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Monday, February 28, 2011

Mystical Coorg – To Nirvana & Back

Of mist-laden hills and oh-so-wonderful aroma of coffee. Here is a quick guide to Coorg as penned by our avid traveller, Nagma. Read on...

"Well, this is almost Scotland-ish. Coorg or Kodadu is situated in south India and is defined by misty hills and rolling tea, coffee & spice plantations visible as far as you can see. Not your conventional holiday spot, no doubt, but charming all year through. Especially when it feels that time does stand still here.

As I entered this Kodagu-land, I could breathe in the fresh smells of oranges, groves of which line either side of the roads. Kodagu is believed to have derived its name from the word ‘Krodhadesa’ or Land of Anger. Another more apt origin to this name could be from ‘Kannada Kundu’, which means ‘dense forest on a steep hill’. “This could be what Nirvana feels like”, was the thought that comes to my mind. I arrived at the hotel, Club Mahindra Kodagu Valley, a charming line of apartment-style rooms, complete with personalized service and a typically Coorgi ambience. Old-world and almost magical, rejuvenation is guaranteed here.

My trip of Coorg started with the most obvious icon of Coorg – Abbey Falls. Located within a private coffee estate, the water gushes down at such speed that its roar could be heard from the main road! Trekking through the trail, you’d breathe in the scent of coffee and oranges. Advise to first-timers – visit the falls during the monsoons when the water flows more and carry your cameras to catch perfect shots of the mist hanging over the falls. Similar in beauty were the Irpu Falls, which is located on the Brahmagiri Hills and is a rather sacred spot. While at Irpu, I also visited a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva called Ishwara Temple. The priests here said that this temple is especially busy during the Shivratri Festival.

A town as relaxed as this is bound to have many stories and interesting accounts of eras gone by. One such spot pointed out by a local was Talacauvery. According to him, this is the birthplace of River Cauvery and a tank and temple marks this sacred spot. Around mid-October, thousands of pilgrims trek up to this spot to watch an almost-magical moment – that of the water gushing up from a spring at a predetermined moment. A little further along, a short hike took me to the Brahmagiri Peak, where myth has that 7 sages performed a holy yajna. This peak also had 2 temples – one dedicated to Shiva and the other to Ganesha. There is a tank here too where many pilgrims were busy taking dips and throwing wishing coins! Prior permission is required for both.

After a peaceful night at the resort, I woke up to the chirping of birds and with a cup of Coorgi coffee watched the
sun rays create a sparkle on the hill-tops. Truly magical. Today’s sojourn included a visit to some of the other spots here – Madikeri Fort with its palace, temple and museum, Raja’s Seat, so named because the kings of Coorg would catch views of the sunset from here and the Omkareshwara Temple, which was built by a Lingaraja King.

With so much to hike around, it was no wonder that I needed to refuel myself with some of the typical Coorgi cuisine. Especially seasoned with a lot of coconut, curry leaves, chilly and local spices, the food here is not for the faint hearted!

After a hearty meal, I headed out to the one place I was simply dying to visit – Dubare Elephant Training Camp at the edge of River Cauvery. And what a sight! Over 15 elephants gamboling in the river and engaged in so many activities! Manned by a wonderful staff and a naturalist, they even let me, for a small fee, bathe the elephants, feed them sugarcane and take a quick ride through the forests. Perfect for folks like us looking for a wee bit of adventure.

The next day was a reasonably relaxed one, where I explored the markets that make Coorg so interesting. It was perfect to stock up on dry spices and coffee, not just for myself, but for people back home. Finally, a quick stop at Somwarpet, which is the coffee heartland of Coorg and a lesson in coffee-making put the perfect finish to my holiday.

With such sights around, Coorg was definitely magical. I’d recommend spending about 3 days here to take in the various attractions. Carry good hiking shoes, adequate change of clothes lest it rains, a camera and your spirit of adventure and you are all set! No matter what you do and how much you see, this is one place, I am sure, that will keep you coming back for more."

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